Birra Korça

I sometimes walk home from the embassy.  It takes about 45-50 minutes if I don't stop anywhere.  Yesterday, though, we got off work at 2 pm so as to avoid the traffic and general congestion which was increasing because of final large rallies for the two biggest political parties ahead of Sunday's election.  So three of the guys I work with went to the Birra Korça (Kor-cha) place by the Dinamo soccer stadium and had beer and qofte (meatballs, sausages-- qofte seems to be an all-encompassing term.)  We got there about 2:30, and it was full, I guess because that's a more normal eating time.  Most days when we stop there it is about 5:30 and it's mostly empty, 5:30 being about halfway between lunchtime and suppertime.  Anyway, about half of the tables were filled with either men and women, and a few just women.  My colleagues commented that five years ago it was extremely rare to see young women out by themselves, but of course it is widespread now.  They seemed to think this was an improvement, adding what one described as a "softer" ambience. Guys here are much more discreet in their girl-watching.  They will follow someone with their eyes, but usually not turn their head and stare.  So I caught one of the guy's eyes following someone down the sidewalk, so I asked him what was he looking at?  He was real embarrassed, and of course the other guys piled on until he turned red.   They're all in their 40s -- I doubt it would embarrass the 20s age group, but I don't know.  It was an enjoyable rainy afternoon diversion from working.  Bledi says the biermeister at Korça spent time in the Czech Republic, which is what he claims gives Korça its Pilsner quality.  I don't know, some people say it is the Korça water.  All I know is it is pretty good beer.