Friday, July 19, 2013

Prague II -- Smetana "Ma Vlast"

The Vltava River (Moldau in German) as it flows north through Prague.  The old castle complex is at the top of the hill in the background, with St. Vitus Cathedral dominating the skyline.  The Vltava joins the Elbe in the Czech Republic and flows through Germany to the Baltic Sea.  The Prague Castle is quite an architectural history lesson, including Romanesque and Gothic churches, the royal suites which represent several different styles, shops, servants quarters, gardens and so forth.  It has been continually used for a thousand years, with exceptions, of course, unlike other large European palaces like Versailles or Schonbrunn which are essentially all from one era.  Prague Castle has been the seat of Bohemian rulers, Holy Roman Emperors, and since the Czech Republic was created in the aftermath of World War I, Czech presidents.

Bedrich Smetana lived in Prague most of his life (mid 19th Century) and composed Ma Vlast here in the last few years of his life (after he had completely lost his hearing.) Ma Vlast means My Country or Fatherland, Homeland, something like that.  One of the movements of Ma Vlast is entitled "Vltava" and we hear it often in the U.S. entitled with its German name, The Moldau.






The Charles Bridge, built in the late 14th Century. 


 The little estuary at the end of the Charles Bridge.  The building on the right is the Smetana Museum.






The first movement of Ma Vlast is called Vysehrad.  Vysehrad was a castle on this site which included a fort, the church, and cemetery.  Smetana is buried here, as is Dvorak.  The Hussites captured and destroyed much of this citadel during the Hussite wars which began with Hus's execution.






The main square in the city center.  There is a memorial statue to Jan Hus in the middle.  Hus was a priest and philosopher who was eventually burned at the stake in Constance, Switzerland, in 1415.  He was from Bohemia and lived and preached there until taken to Constance.  He was a reformer and supporter of the Englishman, John Wycliffe, who was declared a heretic at the same Council of Constance that condemned Jan Hus.  Hus's death enraged his followers in Bohemia and led to riots and what we call the Hussite wars, which lasted on and off for about 15 years.  The last two movements of Ma Vlast, Tabor and Blanik,  are named after places in the Czech Republic connected with the Hussite Wars.  Tabor is a city south of Prague that was the stronghold of the Hussites, and Blanik is a mountain where the defeated Hussites slumber and await the call of the homeland.  Or so "they" say.



Many of what we refer to as religious wars in Europe had nationalistic as well as religious components, and the Hussite Wars certainly did.  The English Reformation had a nationalistic component, which after separation from Rome led quickly to Catholic/Protestant wars.  The European religious wars seem to have started in earnest as the Crusades were winding down; now we seem to be entering the Crusades again, Protestants and Catholics united against Muslims.  After all these centuries of religious confict you'd think we'd be more interested in living in harmony and allowing each person to hold their own religious views unhampered by governmental interference.  But you'd be wrong.

Prague I - Dancing House

Prague is famous for Art Nouveau and Baroque buildings, but this 1996 Dancing House (ING Bank) is striking.  It would stand out anywhere, but on this small corner lot in an old neighborhood it stands out even more.  Designed by architects Vlado Milunic and Frank Gehry.  I'm not sure that we have a name for this type of structure yet, or to be more accurate, I'm sure architects do but I just don't know what it might be. 






















Sunday, June 30, 2013

Casbah III - Random things

 Just a few random photos and thoughts about the Casbah.

First, I seem to like doors and tile work.  Here are two nice examples:







 A carved serving table.  They would place a very large copper or brass dish over the whole thing and put food on it for guests.



Some of the ships waiting to unload cargo.

A Moorish-style minaret.


Another of the public water wells.



There was a street in Tirana that said "Rr. Pashko Vasha" at one end, and "Rr. Vasho Pasha" at the other.  I'm not sure of the applicability of linguistic rules to account for the difference.  But I like these two signs together. 

I had never heard of, let alone seen, a Great Wall auto.  It's already missing the "L"s, which is not a good sign; it looks new, although it is a 2008.  All the license plates have the model year in the tag.


Originally the cathedral of St. James (or St. Philip -- I forget), now a mosque.  It is very similar to the cathedral in Oran which is now a library.



If you turn around 180 degrees from the cathedral, you see the great mosque.


Algiers - Casbah II -- Palace of the Dey

The Ottoman Empire was divided into three main administrative zones (at least in the 17/18th Centuries.  Of course bureaucracies being what they are, they kept adding.)  The head of state of Algiers was the Dey, and his territory was governed by three beys who he appointed.  While Algiers was part of the Ottoman Empire and owed allegiance to the Sultan, they in fact had wide latitude to govern as they wished, as long as they didn't upset the Sultan.  (In Albania Ali Pasha Tepelena was a similar level leader -- the Porte didn't really care too much what he did as long as he was loyal to the Sultan.  Ali Pasha fought several little wars with other pashas and took over their land; the Ottomans didn't seem to mind too much until Ali Pasha started to ally himself with the French, at which point they lopped off his head to register their disapproval.)

Anyway, this is the street entrance to the Dey's palace.


The front entry hall.  The benches on either side of the long hall were for people to sit while waiting to address the Dey about their business.  The large kettle at the end of the hallway is where the dey would sit.


Above are Delft tiles in the hallway.  The reddish tiles at the bottom are all different sailing ships. 

One of the ceiling lanterns.

The interior courtyard, directly adjacent to the entry hall.  This open-air courtyard afforded light to all the rooms of the house as well as ventilation.




A hallway from the courtyard to another section of the palace.




 A capital on one of the columns in the courtyard.

I really like the Ottoman/Moorish doors.  This one is quite ornate.

  The reverse side of one of the doors.
 These rooms are apartments above the courtyard and to the side, used to allow guests of the Dey a place to stay.



Every courtyard needs some fish.

The entry way on my way out.  I was the last to leave, and there is the ubiquitous soldier making sure he was the last to leave.