Life in Albania

It has been so hectic that I have not had the chance to even describe what's happening here in Albania. Before I start, Dave is doing well - he said post-surgery this time is easier than last time. This could be because he is in a London hospital, being fed and looked after properly. Before, he had to rely on his wife for everything (even food, if you can imagine). Anyway, we are hoping he will be in a hotel or flat by Sunday or Monday at the latest. Then, we just have to see how his eye progresses and how long it takes the gas bubble to dissipate. Taylor and I are so ready for him to be home. He's been gone for only a few days, but it feels like months already.

Since our arrival in Albania, we have learned many things. First, the unemployment rate is around 25-30%. So, there is no shortage of people who need jobs and are willing to work for American families. During the first weekend, we met many of our neighbors, American and otherwise. We arrived on Friday - by Sunday, we had an agreement with 2 other families to share their driver, Adnand. He does not have a car, but uses their cars to take their children to school. He is also a full-time driver for one of the families, meaning that he is "on call" essentially to take them or their kids, friends, etc. anywhere. So, Taylor now rides to school with Adnand and 3 other kids.

Adnand's wife is a housekeeper. She works for a family in the afternoons, but was looking for more work in the mornings. So, she is coming to our house on Tuesday and Friday mornings to clean. Her first day was this past Tuesday, so Dave was already gone, she came on her own, without Adnand, and she speaks no English. We did lots of pointing and gesturing and po (yes) and jo(pronounced yo which means no) and she got most of it. I can't say that I did. Today, she called Alba one of our OPDAT Albanian attorneys to say that Zeta was not feeling well. From the conversation as relayed to me, I think Zeta was having a seizure in front of her. Cross your fingers that she doesn't quit out of pure fright. When she arrived this morning, she brought roses from her garden. I don't yet have vases here, but found some jars that worked just fine.

After Dave left at 3:00 am on Monday, I had to locate someone to stay with Taylor in the afternoons. For a couple of days, she stayed with American neighbors down the street - Jenn and Shane. They have 3 kids and a wonderful housekeeper named Teuta (tay-oo-ta) who loves Taylor. Now, I've hired a 28-year-old teacher from Taylor's school - she teaches pre-K, has a college degree in early childhood education, came here from Belgrade with another American family, and was looking for after school work. So, this worked perfectly for both of us, and Taylor just loves her. Also, she cooks, which is wonderful for both of us - now we won't starve waiting on Dave to return. Taylor has made many friends, American, Albanian, Canadian, Spanish, etc. She is having a blast so far - it's like she's lived here for years.

As for me, I hit the ground running. My very first day was the beginning of a Financial Investigative Techniques seminar that Melissa (the other Resident Legal Advisor) had previously scheduled. We had an opening ceremony with the Ambassador and the Albanian Prosecutor General speaking. The Ambassador used this forum to express his support of the PG's investigation into the Gerdec explosion (an ammunition depot which was decommissioning weapons and ammunition exploded just before we arrived here, killing 25 people, wounding over 300 and destroying hundreds of homes in a village just outside Tirana). Because the Ambassador spoke, there was huge press coverage. He also introduced me during his remarks, so all cameras were on me at some point. At the end of the opening ceremony, the cameras kept coming to me and just filming - as I said, quite a first day. Thereafter, for that first week, Melissa and I attended and participated in training prosecutors and police officers in Tirana. The next week, same thing in Durres, a city on the Adriatic about 40 miles from Tirana. We drove there and back every day - and it takes much longer to get anywhere here. So, it was a long week. That weekend on Sunday is when Dave's eye problems began.

In the midst of all of this, Dave worked for 2 days editing a proposal for Terre des Hommes, a nonprofit organization working to stop trafficking of women and children. When documents are translated from Albanian to English, they usually require much editing to make them comprehensible. Dave did a fine job, and got a phone call from UNICEF since he's been in London to perform the same type of work for them.

This week, Dave left on Monday, surgery for him on Tuesday evening, while speaking with his surgeon at 10:00 Tuesday night, lightning struck very near our house and knocked out not only the power but tripped the GFI circuit on our generator. So, no power for the next 12-16 hours after that. Also this week, I've participated in budget meetings, country team meetings, meetings with Albanian officials, meeting with a State department person from DC who is very involved in funding OPDAT in general and my position in particular, and talking to Dave and the very able medical coordinators at the US Embassy in London who are his lifeline to the world at the moment.

Since we arrived here, the Albanian people have been fabulous. They absolutely love Americans, love that we are here trying to help them make their country a better place to live, and they love children. I mentioned that I had just read a fiction book about a school shooting, and was told that nothing like that would ever happen here. The reason - whomever did the shooting would be killed, as would a relevant number of his relatives - there are actually criminal laws regarding blood feuds - which still happen here a lot. One of the markers for getting to our neighborhood is to take a left past the blood feud house - it's now abandoned, but that is what it's called. Apparently, in a blood feud, you can't actually go in someone's house to kill them. You have to wait for them to come out. So, people were holed up in this house for years just to stay alive.

That's all for now - thanks to everyone who has sent e-mails. I have not responded to them all because I simply have not had the time. If I ever get internet at home, then I will have a Vonage phone with a Maryland phone number (301-560-4540) and will have internet access. I truly appreciate everyone's thoughts and prayers - I've tried to keep Dave informed of all the people asking about him.

Love to everyone,
Cindy